Buying an RS Liberty - What to look for?

[Squall77]

My brother is inetersted in buying a Liberty RS Turbo now instead of a 180SX :) Heh heh...

We found one for sale and were having a look over it the other day. Engine bay looked nice and clean but we really have no idea what kind of things go wrong with these cars.

Any advice people?

What sort of kilometres on the clock is acceptable? This one had around 180,000 which i thought was bit too much.

And what asking price (in Australian dollars) should we be looking for.

Thanks in advance!

[markmcrs]

Mine's now done almost 270000kms and the only problem that I have had that was related to lots of kays are the front CV's. Still have the origionals but they are clicking a little when I turn under acceleration so check front CV boots for splits. If I had fixed mine sooner I think mine would have been in better shape now. Also engine and gearbox mounts should be checked- one of my engine mounts split into two parts. My car has had a VERY hard life but is still going strong. Mark.

[RST]

Firstly check it has a stamped service book & has been serviced reguarly. If it has, the biggest problem with them is the clutch & gearbox as everyone here is aware they mechanically are the weakest link in the the car. If it dosent have a stamped service book i would be very wary :!: . Regular oil changes are a must, coolant & break fluid has been changed reguarly. Be wary of any smoke (espically blue) Turbo could be going or possibly worn rings.

My advice would be to get an inspection from a Subaru specialist..

[Jeremy]

I had a 92 sedan and it had some rust under the rear windscreen. It was visible from inside the boot at the boot fwd corners where the boot lid seal tucks under. My 91 wagon has a small rust patch on the roof just behind the front windscreen.

I haven`t seen one that doesn`t seep oil from the rocker covers.

Find out if the heads were changed to wrx heads under warranty. If not are the lifters noisy? You will want to hear it from a cold start.

The coils crack so it runs rough.

Service history would be nice, timing belt etc.

The turbo is usually good for 250 000 klms with regular oil changes.

CV joints for noise and torn/cracked boots. Oil leaking from gearbox driveshaft seals.

The clutch and when it was changed.

Gear shifter bushes in the linkages. I just replaced all six of mine and the double roll pin. Now when in gear the shifter moves about 1-2 cm side to side instead of 4-5 cm.

If its had a hit in the front the radiator hits the cam belt covers and the lower cam sprocket. That will push the camshaft back in the head and shear off the thrust bearing face. Look for new radiator and cam belt cover/s.

I hope i haven`t put you off. When u find a good one they`re a great car.

The good ones are still getting 18 grand from looking in the trading post?

[Jeremy]

I nearly forgot.

I had to replace the crankshaft pulley which is the harmonic balancer. The inner and outer sections are bonded together with a thick rubber and mine was spinning the inner and not the outer. Look for lots of fine cracking in the rubber which is nomal for old pulleys or a cicumferential cracking which is bad.

The coolant reservoirs also leak at the seam around the top, usually if the boost has been raised.

Sounds like mine was a real lemon! But i`m giving examples of RS`s that have been brought in to a mates workshop.

[evade]

I think the most important is to find one that has had the head recall, with the WRX heads and pistons.
You will find the motor can take a lot more punishment and can cope with about 190 KW ATW leaving internals stock.
Other than that, just make sure it drives well.

[whitey]

I also got rust under the back window. Apart from that look at the plastic end tanks on the radiator and the plastic header tank as thermal fatigue causes these to become brittle and crack.

Apart fom that Ive had no troubles and mines done 230 kms.

[Squall77]

Thanks heaps people!!!

I'm going to print out your replies and give them to my brother when we go looking for the car. We'll also make sure to have it professionally checked out before purchasing.

Now the only problem is going to be finding one in reasonable nick...

[PASHN8]

How much does he want to spend? ie whats his range?

[Squall77]

Ideally he wants to spend $12k on a car, but if he finds one that is extra good he would probably go up a little from there.

I've found shit one's for like 10k, reasonable one's for 12k and good ones tend to be 14-16k

So yeah...

[bosc0]

i may know someone selling a very! clean burgandy sedan with about 160 on the clock. Ill find out some more details and post them up. Its been drivin by oldies for ages ;)

B4 Anth, BBBBBBBBBBBEEEEEEEEEFFFFFOOOORRRREEEEEEE :D

[Squall77]

Hook me up when this person is keen to sell.... clean burgundy one's look the shiznit :)

Still no B4... ** sniff **

[PASHN8]

You've got mail Anth.

[markmcrs]

Whitey, I take it that u had to repair your radiator? Mine did the same thing. How did you go about fixing it? New radiator or just new end tank?
Mark.

[willsy01]

Find out if the heads were changed to wrx heads under warranty. If not are the lifters noisy? You will want to hear it from a cold start.

Easiest way to tell if it has had the head change is to look at the ignition coils.....if they are held on with two bolts they are the original ones.....one bolt means they are the WRX ones.

[Charcoal RS]

Evade,
Interested to hear that the stock internals are good for 190KW ATWs. Any idea what sort of boost level that equates too. I am currently running 17.5psi at 145KW ATWs.

Cheers

[markmcrs]

You'll need a bigger turbo and aftermarket ecu at least. There is a guy here who has a WRX with 188kw at the wheels with a TD05, Stosk top mount IC with something like 22-23psi boost. His old man owns a 4wd dyno though so its had HEAPS of tuning. But this is a very inefficient setup- on the street,the heat generated with the top mount will cause power loss and he has cooked a motor.
Mark.