NEW ...Coils, CAI w pod, Boost guage, ... heh

[Turbo B]

Coils- Old ones were completely stuffed, cracks in the body of them and 3 of them disintegrated around the tip when i pulled the rubber boot off em.
Would have been arcing horribly under load.

Plugs- Platiinum/iridium (not sure which) w 50k on em, regapped. Didnt have proper plug gap tool so i measured stuff with vernier calipers until i found 0.8! Turns out the plastic bread clip tags of the top gun leads are pretty much spot on. :wink:

CAI- w BMC pod+ adaptor (which i had previously fitted underbonnet w no heatsheild).
I went out to a joint called "Purple pig" in Sunshine, (they do all things hose- eg silicone etc)). Got some 3.5 very flexible rubber hose with steel wound through it. I now have pod in guard (up nice n high dry...hopefully) with rubber hose fitting easily through factory hole in guard. Because the black hose tends to get a bit hot under the bonnet i wrapped it it and the afm in aluminium coated foam rubber from clarks.

Boost guage- Cheapest i could get from autobarn.

STI sticker on back door -guy at auto salon guaraunteed its authenticity and 15kw atw.

Results-
Coils n plugs- Super smooth running after cold start, no vibration, hunting idle etc that i was getting b4.
Driveability in traffic -awesome improvement, feels like car is running as it was designed to. On highway, i was getting a misfire /hesitation when i hit the accelerator to overtake. Now all gone+ extra smooth revs all the way through.

Pod+ CAI- As Al once said i also love the sound of my engine working. BOV noise is ok on auto , you can tame it most of the time if you need to, or let it rip at will. It all sounds real tough i reckon.
+ looking at factory series 1-2 airbox + seeing unfavourable test results done on HF flat panel, i couldnt justify updating in that direction. + fitting coils is much easier without the box.( i have ABS too).
Non convoluted piping for airflow may be better for optimum flow but i aint that dedicated. price of pipe was about $20 and is super easy to fit .
Engine is revving noticeably easier, ie booting it, revs climb to just over 7000 and auto does a double shuffle change (needs adjustment now methinks)
Only did it before on v hard, down hill takeoff.

Guage- getting 10- spike to 11 psi - good to finally know.

Sti sticker- sik mate- place yr bets on how long it lasts.

Next is exhaust, ecu-16 bit + vos, and that'll do me i reckon.

Big ups to Dad, Raoul-WREX, Peter-Gansta at Autobarn, Paddo, and the dude who sold me the STI sticker.

[Raz]

lol...good story bro...happy to have helped out
CheeRS

[Mickey]

Nice work Ben :TUP

Looking forward to seeing you car again.

[adrianvos]

What unfavourable results have you seen on a flat panel filter??

I am going to the later air box myself with custom pipework from Al to a VF34. I would be surprised if the filter was a restriction... they are not small. At the end of the day you run a risk of defect with a pod where I live.

-- Adrian

[Turbo B]

Adrian
I read about it in an autospeed tech tip article
[/url]http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2232/article.html[url]
It made sense to me. Mainly what i'm thinking is that the design of the series 1 and 2 airboxes/ intake(even after snorkus mod) is unfavourable for modifying further.
A flat panel filter in this setup wouldnt be enough of a step up for the $$$.
I thought a straight through pipe to pod in the guard would give the cleanest unrestricted, airflow path.
If i had a wrx or series 3 box which is much cleaner design i would have probably kept it, and gone HF panel and CAI.

I dont know, probably splitting hairs here, but i had a lot of fun doing it!

BTW if you get hold of a series 2 ECU that isn't already bagsed please pm me , i want your chip!

[paddo]

word up ben... i hope its all going well... your old man is a champ!

[GANSTA]

I'm glad to be a help to you Ben, it was nice meeting you old man. He seemed tolorent enough.

Where did you end up putting the boost gauge?

[AWD_1993]

Lovely stuff Benny ;)

Should catch up with you sometime ... what's this stuff you got from Purple Pig ... :shock:

[adrianvos]

Turbo B,

I read that article, and it does not say anything about the flat panel filters being bad. In fact it says that there is no measurable difference between a factory filter dirty, clean and not installed. It even sites the Liberty RS as a test case.

That is not to say that I think the RS air box is great...... I thing the way the air flow meter mounts in the box lid with about 30mm between its output and the side of the box is a reason for concern.

Under Al's advice, I have gotten the air box out of a late NA liberty (98 I think). This has the entry of the box diagonally facing the turbo. The entry to the box is very open compared to the RS liberty. Al has also tigged some custom pipe work from this air box to the VF34 where I use a silicon bend to go into the straight entry. The min pipe size 2.25" at the turbo end going to 3" from the bend to the air box. I then just fit a funnelled PVC pipe into the guard and cut the lower section of the inner guards out to get good air into the guard.

I doubt that a cone filter in the guard would have any benefit over this, and this is legal which concerns me, though I understand it may not concern others.

-- Adrian

[goq11k]

Turbo B,

I read that article, and it does not say anything about the flat panel filters being bad. In fact it says that there is no measurable difference between a factory filter dirty, clean and not installed. It even sites the Liberty RS as a test case.

That is not to say that I think the RS air box is great...... I thing the way the air flow meter mounts in the box lid with about 30mm between its output and the side of the box is a reason for concern.

Under Al's advice, I have gotten the air box out of a late NA liberty (98 I think). This has the entry of the box diagonally facing the turbo. The entry to the box is very open compared to the RS liberty. Al has also tigged some custom pipe work from this air box to the VF34 where I use a silicon bend to go into the straight entry. The min pipe size 2.25" at the turbo end going to 3" from the bend to the air box. I then just fit a funnelled PVC pipe into the guard and cut the lower section of the inner guards out to get good air into the guard.

I doubt that a cone filter in the guard would have any benefit over this, and this is legal which concerns me, though I understand it may not concern others.

-- Adrian

I had a hi-flow Unifilter panel in the standard airbox, changed to Unifilter Pod filter and didnt notice an improvement in any department bar the BOV noise that we all love, pity as it cost me $180 big ones for no gain at all.

[AWD_1993]

I read that article, and it does not say anything about the flat panel filters being bad. In fact it says that there is no measurable difference between a factory filter dirty, clean and not installed. It even sites the Liberty RS as a test case.

That is not to say that I think the RS air box is great...... I thing the way the air flow meter mounts in the box lid with about 30mm between its output and the side of the box is a reason for concern.

I think the RS airbox is not too bad ... and I believe that it has much more potential then any POD filter. The reason behind this is because you can construct a ramming system, forcing air into the airbox, where the POD you can't ...

As for HF panel filters ... there is such a negligible difference between a HF and a standard filter, although I have a HF panel filter in my car :shock: (goes to show how silly I was)

[adrianvos]

I used to run a Unifilter rampod, and I recently went back to the standard box with a repco filter, but with a PVC trumpet into the box (resonectomy).

I noticed no difference in power, and confirmed this on our dyno.. but my car only had 135 kW ATW then. I am now aiming for 180-200, and I expect that this will be a tougher test of an intake system, but I believe that the setup I will be running will have no problems.

-- Adrian

[Turbo B]

Adrian
You are completely correct , my mistake. The article leads in with talk of aftermarket filters not making any difference then just gives results about dirty paper filters vs clean!
The point you made about the design of the AFM into RS airbox was my big problem as well.
Please post up pics of yr engine bay when finished, sounds like an awesome setup, i'm keen to see the results.

David
I shyed away from a box/ram air type feed as i could only see 2 options (within my meagre means) for setup.
1 i want to keep my foggies,
2 i didnt want to scoop air in from under the guard because of fear of water getting into intake. (My pod is right up high and hopefully dry).
Yeah mainly water was my big concern with this. Has any one had probs with their ram setup and H20?
Re:hose-I have about 50cm of it left over, you are welcome to take it if ya want.

Peter
I whacked the boost guage in the tray under my stereo for the time being. It aint to safely viewable right down there so i would like to get it mounted above the stereo at some stage.

Thanks for your replies dudes,

Ben

[SC00BS]

Ben, if you're willing to give up an aircon vent why don't you put it in the drivers side vent. Very easy to see. I have a pic of mine on http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9458&start=25

[Turbo B]

Hey Ruf20l (wish i knew your name fr this)
I saw your footer note, my deepest condolences man.
Just had an awesome couple of days over the bonnet of the car with my dad, get to see him very rarely now i live in melb. Realising how important quality time together is as the folks age.

On to your topic, thanks, i was actually thinking of this option, i saw that photo before. Very useable position.
Interested to know what is going on behind there, is it reversable?
Does air still flow to that outlet or is it blocked?
If you could post up some general instructions i will probably go for it.
As you can probably deduce from my choice of placement. I dont want a pillar or dash top guage setup.

Cheers
Ben

[SC00BS]

Thanks for that man, I appreciate it. The vent really made the decision for me, while I was adjusting it one day it just fell out, so i thought "meh"why not just stick the gauge in there. Don't know if it's reversible(I used araldite, so probably not!). You have to use a plastic that doesn't crack when you cut it(I used marby plate, and cut mine to size with a stanley knife). Make sure you have a lot of patience and time before you do it though. Unscrew the dash and drop it forward, you don't have to take it out, just as long as you can work behind it. Make sure you hook up everything up before sealing it in place. Once you've done that put the sealant around the vent not the plastic otherwise it will get messy. Then take a seat for about 10 mins while sets. You will have to apply pressure from both sides while it sets, but try not to move it too much. Once its set Just screw it all together. I put my aircon on low to try and speed up the setting process. As far as i know the aircon still works back there(As I didn't block the vent behind the gauge). Now and then it gets a little warm when the heater is on, but apart from that I've had no dramas. Hope this is helpful.

By the way, the name is Jason

[Turbo B]

word up , thanks man !

[Raz]

my boost guage is also in the vent. neat now with a fitted foam surround. It is secured from behind so to get the guage out you gotta pull out the dash.

My condolences also Jason in the pasing of your dad.

[SC00BS]

Thank you wrex. Got any pics of your install?